ORGIN STORY
I’ve always loved Dr. Martens ever since I was in High School–I have 3 pairs of various styles now–but what’s up with the boot, how and why did it become a “thing?” I had to check it out…
Dr. Martens, also known as Docs or DMs, is a British footwear and clothing brand, which also makes a range of accessories. The company’s footwear is distinguished by its air-cushioned sole, upper shape, welted construction and yellow stitching.
The history of Dr. Martens begins in 1945 in Germany, post-World War II. Dr. Klaus Maertens, a 25-year-old soldier, injured his foot while skiing. In order to aid his recovery, he designed a shoe with an air-cushioned sole, as he found that traditional hard leather soles were too uncomfortable on his injured foot. He used old rubber from Luftwaffe airfields to create the soles.
In 1947, he went into partnership with his old university friend, Dr. Herbert Funck, and they started making shoes together in Seeshaupt, Germany. They began production of their unique shoes using discarded rubber from Luftwaffe airfields. The comfortable and durable soles quickly gained popularity, especially among older women.
By 1959, they had decided to advertise their revolutionary footwear invention internationally. An advertisement in a shoe trade magazine was spotted by the Griggs family of Northampton, England, who had a history of making shoes dating back to 1901. The Griggs family was interested in the innovative design and decided to buy patent rights to manufacture the shoes in the United Kingdom.
The first British-made Dr. Martens boots, the model 1460, was launched on 1 April 1960. The design was refined and the name was anglicized to “Dr. Martens”. The heel loop was added, the design was slightly altered, and trademark yellow stitching was introduced.
The boots and shoes became popular in the 1960s and 1970s among various subcultures, including skinheads, punks, and others. The brand was associated with a rebellious attitude, and Dr. Martens products came to be seen as a symbol of individuality and self-expression.
Over the years, Dr. Martens has continued to evolve, with various styles and designs being introduced. Despite some financial difficulties in the early 2000s, the brand has managed to survive and thrive, remaining a popular choice of footwear worldwide.
WHO WAS Dr. Klaus Maertens
As mentioned, Dr. Klaus Maertens was a German army doctor during World War II. He invented the air-cushioned sole to aid his recovery from a broken foot, which he had sustained while on leave from the army.
Unfortunately, there is not a wealth of personal information about Dr. Maertens available to the public. He is primarily known for his contribution to footwear design and the creation of the brand that carries a version of his name.
His innovative design was initially popular with older women due to its comfort.
In essence, Dr. Klaus Maertens was a creative problem-solver whose personal necessity led to an invention that has had a lasting impact on the world of footwear.
HISTORY
Initially being popular among postal workers, factory workers, and police officers for their durability and practicality, Dr. Martens boots gained significant traction within the skinhead subculture in England. The eight-hole 1460 boot, characterized by its distinctive yellow stitching, became an integral part of the skinhead working-class uniform.
Skinheads, who emerged in the late 1960s and early 1970s, adopted Dr. Martens boots as part of their distinctive style. They paired the boots with jeans or sta-prest trousers, button-down shirts, and other elements of their fashion aesthetic. The robustness and rebellious image associated with the boots aligned well with the subculture’s working-class identity and non-conformist attitude.
As the 1970s progressed, Britain witnessed the rise and fall of various subcultures, including glam, two-tone, goth, new-romantic, and punk rock. Each of these movements brought forth their own rebellious and expressive youth tribes, and Dr. Martens boots, particularly the iconic 1460 model, continued to be a favored footwear choice. The boots, became a symbol of counterculture and self-expression across these diverse subcultures.
The association of Dr. Martens with multiple subcultures further solidified the brand’s image as a symbol of rebellion, individuality, and youth culture. The versatility and enduring style of the boots contributed to their continued popularity among various subcultural groups over the years.
By the mid-1980s, Dr. Martens had become an established symbol of British youth culture and the working class. The social and political climate in England, characterized by austerity measures and proposed social reforms by the Conservative party, fueled rebellion and unrest among the youth. Alternative music scenes thrived, and American punk bands touring the U.K. often purchased Dr. Martens boots to take back to the United States. This exposure positioned Dr. Martens to be embraced by the emerging Grunge movement, a genre of alternative music that originated in Seattle and gave rise to bands like Nirvana, Melvins, Pearl Jam, and Alice in Chains. The heavily worn and rugged appearance of Dr. Martens boots aligned perfectly with the “loser-kid” aesthetic associated with many grunge acts, further sustaining the boots’ popularity throughout the 1990s.
During this period, Dr. Martens experienced high profitability, boasting a six-story department store in London’s Covent Garden and an annual production line of over ten million pairs. However, the brand faced challenges in the early 2000s, with declining sales and profits reaching a low point in 2003, which led to Dr. Martens flirting with bankruptcy. In an effort to cut costs and revive the brand, the company made difficult decisions, including cutting over a thousand jobs in the U.K. and relocating production to China and Thailand. While this move deviated from Dr. Martens’ philosophy of British-made boots manufactured in the English Midlands, it was a crucial part of the comprehensive company restructuring that enabled Dr. Martens to survive. The R. Griggs Group Ltd., the parent company of Dr. Martens, was recognized with an award by the Institute for Turnaround for successfully conducting this restructure and revitalization process.
SUBCULTURES
Dr. Martens boots became associated with various subcultures for a variety of reasons:
- Durability and Practicality: The boots were durable, sturdy, and practical. Their air-cushioned soles were comfortable for standing and walking for long periods, which made them popular among working-class individuals, including factory workers, postmen and policemen. This utilitarian aspect appealed to many subcultures, like punks and skinheads, who often valued practical, sturdy clothing.
- Affordability: Originally, Dr. Martens were quite affordable (sold at 2 GBP), which made them accessible to many young people and members of various subcultures.
- Symbolic Rebellion: The boots also became symbols of rebellion. For example, the punk subculture in the UK during the 1970s and 1980s was characterized by a rebellion against mainstream, conformist society, and Dr. Martens boots were seen as a part of this rebellion. Their robust and unique design differentiated wearers from the mainstream.
- Adoption by Music Scene: The association of Dr. Martens with music scenes also played a significant role. Many musicians, including Pete Townshend of The Who, were known to wear them. This popularized the boots among fans and contributed to their adoption by various music-related subcultures. The brand also embraced this association, often collaborating with bands and musicians for promotional events and special edition boots.
- Uniformity and Group Identity: For skinheads, the boots became part of a uniform that signaled group identity. The skinhead subculture originally grew out of the working class and was characterized by a distinct style that included shaved heads, jeans, and Dr. Martens boots.
Overall, the association of Dr. Martens with various subcultures was a combination of practical, economic, and symbolic factors, reinforced by the brand’s association with music and rebellion.
INNOVATION
The primary innovation that Dr. Martens introduced was the air-cushioned sole, which was a significant departure from the hard leather soles that were common in many shoes at the time. This air-cushioned sole, also known as the Bouncing Soles, was designed by Dr. Klaus Maertens, who wanted a comfortable shoe to aid his recovery from a foot injury.
The air-cushioned sole is made of rubber and contains air pockets that help to absorb shock and add comfort. This makes the shoes and boots much more comfortable to wear for long periods, particularly for people who are on their feet all day.
Another innovative aspect of Dr. Martens was the use of a process called Goodyear welting to attach the sole to the upper part of the shoe. This process involves a strip of leather (the welt) being sewn around the edge of the upper and then attached to the sole. This makes the shoes and boots more durable and allows for the soles to be replaced, extending the life of the footwear.
The design of Dr. Martens footwear, with its recognizable yellow stitching, heel-pull loop, and robust, chunky appearance, was also innovative in terms of fashion. The brand’s distinctive aesthetic set it apart from other footwear and made it a symbol of rebellion and individuality.
In conclusion, Dr. Martens boots have left an indelible mark on the history of footwear, evolving from their humble beginnings as work-wear boots into iconic symbols of rebellion and self-expression. From their association with subcultures like skinheads, punks, and grunge enthusiasts, to their endurance through various music and fashion movements, Dr. Martens boots have consistently resonated with the rebellious spirit of youth culture. Despite facing challenges and undergoing significant transformations, the brand’s commitment to quality, style, and adaptability has allowed it to weather storms and maintain its place as a cultural icon. Dr. Martens boots continue to be a testament to the enduring power of counterculture and individuality in the world of fashion.
Mastermind Century Group 